18ct white gold, diamond, ruby and onyx 'Le Baiser du Dragon' pendant necklace and bracelet suite, Cartier, comprising: a detachable pendant designed as an open work articulated geometric motif pave-set with brilliant-cut diamonds accented by swing drop ruby beads, suspending two silk cord tassels with ruby bead terminals, completed by a necklace designed as a line of gold capped cylindrical black onyx beads alternating with similarly set ruby beads to a concealed clasp, pendant approximately 3.15 in. x 1.57 in., necklace length approximately 15.75 in., bracelet/necklace extender en suite, bracelet length 7.09 in., pendant signed Cartier, numbered 992912, necklace and bracelet signed Cartier, French assay and makers marks.
- Openwork in Jewellery - Openwork, also known as pierced work, is a decorative technique used in jewellery making that involves removing or cutting out sections of metal from a piece of jewellery to create a pattern or design. This technique can be used in a wide range of jewellery styles, including necklaces, bracelets, earrings, and rings.
Openwork jewellery can be made using a variety of different techniques, including hand carving, sawing, and laser cutting. The design can be simple or complex, and can feature a range of different shapes and motifs, from delicate floral patterns to bold geometric designs.
One of the advantages of openwork jewellery is that it can add visual interest and depth to a piece without adding a lot of weight or bulk. This can be particularly appealing in larger pieces, such as necklaces and bracelets, where heavy materials can be uncomfortable to wear.
- Onyx - Onyx is a form of agate, used from antiquity and popular again in the 1920s and 30s. European onyx is generally green, but can be many other colours, and can contain bands of black and/or white.
This multicoloured stone is widely used for table tops, lamp bases and in jewellery. Some types of onyx are also used for cameos of which the upper white layer is cut away to reveal the colour beneath.
- Assay / Assayed - Assaying is the testing of a metal, most commonly silver and gold to determine its ingredients and quality. In Britain, once an item of silver or gold has been assayed, a mark is stamped on it, certifying its purity. Known as hallmark, it derives its name from the Guild Hall of the Goldsmiths' Company, who recieved its Charter in 1327 giving it the power to assay and mark articles of gold and silver.
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