Van Cleef & Arpels Panther Brooch with Diamonds and Emeralds
18ct gold, diamond, onyx and emerald brooch, Van Cleef & Arpels, modelled as a panther with an articulated tail and paw resting on a textured branch, the nose of black enamel, the eyes embellished with circular-cut emeralds, the body pave-set with onyx and brilliant-cut diamonds, length approximately 3.54 in., signed Van Cleef & Arpels, French assay and maker's marks, numbered M37380. Accompanied by a Van Cleef & Arpels pouch. . For similar examples see Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels, Sotheby's, Geneva, 14 May 2013, lot 221;Fine Jewels, Sotheby's, London, 16 Dec 2014, lot 104.
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- Onyx - Onyx is a form of agate, used from antiquity and popular again in the 1920s and 30s. European onyx is generally green, but can be many other colours, and can contain bands of black and/or white.
This multicoloured stone is widely used for table tops, lamp bases and in jewellery. Some types of onyx are also used for cameos of which the upper white layer is cut away to reveal the colour beneath. - Emeralds - Emeralds have been used in jewellery making for thousands of years, and are prized for their deep green colour, which is caused by the presence of chromium and vanadium in the mineral beryl. Because of their rare colour, emeralds are often more valuable than diamonds of a similar size and quality. In jewellery making, emeralds are typically cut into round or oval shapes to maximize their color and clarity. They are often set in gold or platinum and used as the centrepiece of a piece of jewellery, such as a ring or necklace. They can also be used in combination with other gems, such as diamonds, to create intricate and beautiful designs.
- Assay / Assayed - Assaying is the testing of a metal, most commonly silver and gold to determine its ingredients and quality. In Britain, once an item of silver or gold has been assayed, a mark is stamped on it, certifying its purity. Known as hallmark, it derives its name from the Guild Hall of the Goldsmiths' Company, who recieved its Charter in 1327 giving it the power to assay and mark articles of gold and silver.
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